Roman Sausage Pasta (Zozzona)

Method

1. 1

   Crisp the guanciale

   Put the guanciale in a large cold frying pan and cook over medium-low heat for 8 to 12 minutes, stirring occasionally, until crisp and its fat has rendered; lift onto a plate.

2. 2

   Brown the sausage

   Add the sausage meat to the rendered fat and cook over medium-high heat for 8 to 10 minutes, breaking it into bite-sized pieces, until browned and the centre reaches 71°C (160°F).

3. 3

   Cook the onion

   If the pan holds more than about 2 tablespoons of fat, spoon off the excess; add the onion and cook over medium heat for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring, until soft.

4. 4

   Simmer the sauce

   Add the passata and half the pepper, bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat, then cook uncovered for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until thickened; stir in the guanciale and keep gently warm over low heat.

5. 5

   Cook the pasta

   Bring 4 litres of water to a boil, stir in the salt, then cook the rigatoni according to packet timing until just shy of al dente; reserve 300 ml pasta water before draining.

6. 6

   Prepare the egg mixture

   While the pasta cooks, whisk the yolks, pecorino and remaining pepper in a heatproof bowl; gradually whisk in 60 to 90 ml warm reserved pasta water until smooth and pourable.

7. 7

   Toss pasta with sauce

   Add the drained pasta to the gently warm sauce and toss over low heat for 1 to 2 minutes, adding pasta water a splash at a time, until the pasta is al dente and coated.

8. 8

   Temper the egg mixture

   Take the pan off the heat and wait until the sauce stops bubbling and is warm, not steaming, about 1 to 3 minutes; whisk 2 tablespoons hot sauce into the egg mixture, then whisk in another 2 tablespoons.

9. 9

   Finish and serve

   Pour the tempered egg mixture over the pasta off the heat and toss continuously for 1 to 2 minutes, adding pasta water gradually until glossy and creamy.

10. 10

    Season and serve

    Taste the pasta and add salt if needed; serve immediately while warm.

Tips

• Use plain, unseasoned sausage so the guanciale and Pecorino do not make the dish overly salty.
• Reserve pasta water before draining and keep it warm for whisking into the yolks and loosening the sauce.
• Add pasta water gradually and taste before adding salt, as guanciale, sausage and Pecorino vary in saltiness.
• If the sauce becomes too thick, loosen it with a splash of warm pasta water off the heat.

Swaps

• Use pancetta in place of guanciale.
• Use another short, ridged pasta shape in place of rigatoni.

Storing

Refrigerate leftovers in an airtight container for up to 2 days. Reheat gently in a pan over low heat with a splash of water, stirring often; the egg sauce may not remain as silky.